• 2007-02-21

    Big Life Surfing


    Today I met this guy called Jake from Hawaii on skype.And we had a nice chat.He is professional surfer.I mean PROFESSIONAL.In other words,he just surfed for a living.

    It's the first time I met and talked to a real surfer,online or off.So I asked tons of questions and I even asked him for some pictures that show him surfing.He did send one,in which he seemed to be leading a huge wave,sweeping all the way to the viewfinder,precariously dangerous and rawly stimulating.

    Among all the words we exchanged during our conversation,the following by Jake struck me most.It is so crude,yet so true;so spontaneous and inspiring,I HAVE NO CHOICE but to transcribe them here;I know I need the advice more than anyone right now.But I think the lesson preached goes for everyone.Here goes:

    ""Life.. is like a ferris wheel ..you got your ups ..and you got your downs ....just don't be one of those DILRODS who climbs out of their seat ..falls..and ruins the ride for the rest of us!!"